Ben McEwan of Lexington Catering reviews the culinary experience at the new St Pancras Station.
The difficulty about eating out in St Pancras International isn’t finding somewhere to go, it is breaking the news to a loved one that the venue for the hot date they’ve been looking forward to all week is in actual fact a train station, and that furthermore the closest they are going to get to anything French is likely to be Prêt A Manger, let alone Paris!
However, get past this and you’re in for an absolute treat because St Pancras International is becoming quite a venue in itself, boasting an enviable range of shops and eateries for anyone; the last minute traveller, the ladies who lunch, friends catching up and yes if the current marketing is anything to go by, a spot of romance.
I started my culinary expedition at the Betjeman Arms, a gastro pub located on the Rendezvous, (otherwise known as ‘upstairs’). With impressive views over the station and away from the Eurostar check-in desks, the Betjeman is a pleasant place to eat. Friendly and efficient service compliments the simple but interesting and reasonably priced menu. Old favourites like fish and chips are nestled in between mixed bean chilli and butterfly sardines, whilst on the desert menu the rich chocolate and orange mousse leads the way. Three courses will set you back just over £20 each and service is added to the bill.
Moving downstairs to the Arcade I was drawn to ‘crepeaffaire’ where for mostly under a fiver you can find all sorts of sweet and savoury options stuffed into a crêpe, with options ranging from a New York Deli (salmon, cream cheese and chives) to The Londoner (scrambled egg, bacon and cheese) and for the more adventurous there is a chicken tikka option or even cheese and marmite! Feeling in the mood for a little ‘crepeaffaire’ of my own, I opted for a safer Belgian chocolate. Freshly made and with melted Belgian milk chocolate generously plastered on I was left feeling positively adulterous! The only disappointment was that if you chose to eat in you get a proper cutlery and a paper plate mash up which feels a little bizarre, but the friendly staff (complete with berets), bar style seating and views over the concourse make crepeaffaire a great place to breakfast or lunch while the world and its suitcases passes you by.
The arcade is home to, amongst others, Le Pain Quotidien and Peyton and Byrne. The mixture of brickwork and glass, a continuous theme throughout the arcade, works really well and certainly helps to create interest and atmosphere. With a choice of table service or a popular grocery, Le Pain Quotidien was bustling with activity; located opposite the Eurostar, it is an ideal place for travellers to grab a bite to eat. Further down the arcade Peyton and Byrne instantly drew me in with a tantalising selection of cakes, breads and pastries. The cupcakes were the star attraction and come beautifully presented in coloured take away boxes. If you are planning a celebration Peyton and Byrne will make occasion cakes to order and the staff behind the counter seem eager to help. Alongside the sweeter treats you can also find a range of sandwiches and boxed salads as well as a decent selection of jams, chutneys, mustards, marmalades and even loose-leaf teas and speciality coffees, ensuring it is well worth a visit. Over on the opposite side of the arcade you can find the salad bars such as Benugo and Chop’d, both of which put huge emphasis on fresh produce and healthy eating. At Chop’d if you try their 5 day detox you get your sixth one free. Also nestled in is intensely colourful chocolatier, Neuhaus. This verges on a chocolate gallery, showcasing their wares in backlit display cases and dramatic arrangements. Clearly gearing up for Easter there was an impressive range of chocolate eggs, rabbits, chickens and truffles, but beware: choco-heaven it may be but Neuhaus isn’t cheap! If you are going to have a meal down in the arcade I would recommend visiting during the day. Many of the restaurants spill out onto the arcade itself and the passers by and sunshine keep it lively, even as the evening draws in, the footfall slackens and the vast halls become eerily quiet and rather draughty.
The Circle is where you can find the usual suspects such as Starbucks, Pret a Manger, Paul and also Yo Sushi but it is also home to the Fine Burger Co, and what a burger indeed! Made to order there is an interesting array of meals on offer from plain hamburger to cheddar or stilton and even Halal chicken. For the milkshake fans out there, the Fine Burger Co does not disappoint and you can choose from chocolate, vanilla or strawberry. If you are planning a visit take a stroll down the arcade on your over as there are often vouchers being dished out.
It might not be quite as exciting as Covent Garden or Shepherd’s Market but certainly St Pancras and many of the capital’s other travel hubs are stepping up their game and looking to provide food, drink and shopping not only to travellers passing though but to the local and wider communities and really positioning themselves as destinations. So whether it is a quick coffee and spot of shopping, a long lunch or champagne celebrations, pick up the phone, call your friends and tell them to ‘Meet you at St Pancras!’